The cheapest I could find lugs was at our local TSC. They cost about 5 dollars for a pack two, and usually only carry two packs. Due to the lack of quantity and above normal prices, I just made my own. You'll need copper tubing, a tube cutter, a drill and maybe a vice and a grinder.

I started by cutting 1 3/4" sections of copper pipe. I then placed about half of the end into the vice as show in the picture below.



I then rounded off the corners with my grinder, then drilled a hole in the flat spot of the appropriate size.



I'm using 2g wire, and it fit rather snug into the newly made lug. I heated them up with a propane torch and soldered the lug into place. Then I placed a bit of heat shrink around the neck to help prevent shorts.

Sure looks different with out all the rust!

Not much has been done due to either lack of power (storms), and waiting on parts to come in the mail. Tires and rims did arrive, but only two of four. I contacted the place that I purchased the tires from and they said they would find out why I didn't receive all four. The two I got do look nice though! One can see a night and day difference in the picture below showing the new and the old.



Also been doing rust removal using electrolysis. Its very simple to do. Heres what you need.

Something to hold water
Metal rods to use as anodes (These rods will eventually be destroyed)
Laundry Soda (In a pinch you can use Baking soda, but its not as good)
Battery Charger (I've been setting my charger to 35 amps, but 6 or more will work)

Simply fill your container with water. Mix in 1 cup of Laundry Soda to every 5 gallons of water. Drop 1 or more metal rods into the container and connect to the "+" lead of the battery charger. The item you want to remove the rust needs to be submerged and connected to the "-" lead. Also make sure you do this in a vented area. I usually give the whole process 5 to 10 hours depending on how bad its rusted. However some things come clean in just a few hours. When the process is finished, there will be a black film over the item being cleaned, just brush it off with a soft wire brush. I usually coat whatever I de-rusted right away with either paint, or I rub it down with oil to prevent it from rusting.



For detailed information on how to remove rust by electrolysis Click Here

Spent some time this weekend doing some cleanup work. After a new motor bearing and some cleanup, we sanded all the rust off and painted the motor housing with Hi Temp Stove Paint. The differential and end caps of the motor are Cast Aluminum, so we painted those with Aluminum engine paint. Also shot the axle with the stove paint, and topped it off with some undercoating. The motor has tested good and sounds nice and smooth.

This is a 1976 Vanguard CitiCar! The Citicar was the answer to the oil crisis in the 70s. They were made from 1974 to 1976. Some say only 2600 of these cars were made! These Citicars were made in Seabring Florida. You'll notice in the pictures that mine has the steering wheel on the right side. It is the only one that I have found built like this, and I must assume it was a custom build.



I found this buy on Ebay, a Columbus Ohio Sale, the ad read as follows:

WE ARE SELLING THIS FOR AN ESTATE P>

.YOU ARE BIDDING ON A 1976 SEBRING VANGUARD " CITICAR " ELECTRIC AUTOMOBILE STREET LEGAL.
P>
OWNER WAS AN OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY PROFESSOR AND BATTELLE THINK TANK ENGINEER WAY AHEAD OF HIS TIME THINKING " GREEN " 30 YEARS AGO. .
CAR HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN SINCE SINCE 1989
.
IT HAS 9577 MILES OR HOURS I AM NOT SURE HOW THEY FIGURE WHETHER IT WAS HOURS OR MILES.

MANUFACTURE DATE 6/76
.IT HAS BEEN STORED OUTSIDE AND IS PRETTY ROUGH HAS SOME MOSS AND A LOT OF LEAF DEBRIS ON IT DOES NOT RUN AT THIS TIME WE HAVE THE ORIGINAL KEY WE DO NOT KNOW IF IT RUNS OR IF MOTOR IS GOOD OR BAD COULD BE JUST THE BATTERIES.
.
THE PLASTIC WINDOWS HAVE COMPLETELY SPIDER WEB CRACKLED THERE ARE SEVERAL CRACKS AROUND THE PASSENGER SIDE HEADLITE

AND A SMALL BROKEN SPOT WHERE THE DRIVERS MIRROR WAS ATTACHED . CAR IS PARKED AT THE LATE OWNERS HOUSE IN COLUMBUS OHIO ZIP CODE 43214.

.
A NEIGHBOR SAID HE DROVE AROUND IN IT ABOUT 20 YEARS AGO LAST ACTIVE LICENSE PLATE WAS 1989.

.
THIS CAR ON 0 -100 SCALE COMES IN AT ABOUT A 20 IT IS IN NEED OF TOTAL RESTORATION FROM GROUND UP SHOULD BE CONSIDERED NON-RUNNING AND BODY IS COVERED WITH MOSS & DIRT
.
SELLER IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DELIVERY OR SHIPPING COST BUYER MUST MAKE ALL SHIPPING ARRANGEMENTS.
.
THIS VEHICLE WOULD FIT INSIDE A LARGE " POD " UNIT

I'd say the description wasn't far off either. The body needs a lot of work. As for the electronics, it appears it all needs replaced. This will be a fun little project!